Our Frequently Asked Questions page covers questions that are frequently asked by our customers!

We don’t list a phone number on our Contact page as we prefer to do business online. We are not always able to pick up the phone during business hours, but sending us a message lets us find an answer to your enquiry and reply when we’re free.

Please use the Contact page or Facebook Messenger to drop us a message.  We do our best to respond to messages within a few business hours.

As long stock is available, orders made with immediate payment before 3PM AEST will generally be fulfilled inside of two working days. You will receive a tracking code via email once your order is shipped. If you have not received the email, the order has not shipped yet.

Shipping time depends on which carrier you choose, we have multiple options from Express to Standard available at checkout.

See the Shipping page for more info.

We don’t have a pickup facility at this time. We do offer same day courier for some items in metro Melbourne. Contact us if it’s urgent.

Our J3 Chips will work on any Ford EEC ECU (including European and US models). This includes EA, EB, ED, EF, EL, AU (1, 2 & 3), XG, and XH Ford Falcons along with all N-series Fairlanes, and vehicles such as the Mustang, Thunderbird, etc.

For a list of the definitions and binaries we can offer tuning advice and support on, please see Tuning Files.

This depends on your what you want to do with your vehicle.

If you are looking to get a standard tune to suit a manual conversion, or Disable Smartlock / Smartshield, a Stage 1 J3 Chip might be the best solution. For those with mild modifications, like a camshaft, intake/exhaust changes, or if you are just looking to get the most out of your car, a Stage 2 J3 Chip is the best choice, while cars with bigger cams, turbo or supercharger installations, NOS or custom manifolds etc would be after a Stage 3 J3 Chip.

Finally, advanced users keen to DIY tune their cars should look at the Full House DIY Tuning Kit for all the gear required to tune your own car.

The J3 Chip is provided with simple instructions that must be followed carefully in order to ensure trouble free operation of your chip.

The most common cause behind issues with a new chip is not cleaning all of the clear lacquer off the J3 port on the ECU. This means the ECU can not read the chip correctly, and leads to problems.

See J3 Chip Installation Instructions for more information on how to install a J3 chip correctly the first time.

This is highly dependant on the vehicle and what the tune is like to begin with. Power can be made all over the curve – remember you spend the most time well below peak rpm!  Chasing power through the middle of the chart will make for a much more drivable and economical vehicle.  Using premium fuel adds additional benefit as the tune can be altered to suit the higher octane rating of premium fuel.  It is difficult or impossible to guess how much additional power will be made, however 5-10% increases are what we usually see.

Installation is a very simple process involving no special tools (some soldering may be required for AU Series 1 only). The J3 port on the ECU needs to be cleaned very well, then the chip simply plugs in! Read the J3 Chip Installation Instructions for more information and a step-by-step guide on how to install a J3 Chip.

Yes; we can supply a J3 Chip to suit your specifications. Supplying a dyno printout with RPM and AFR is highly recommended as it allows us to tailor the tune to your fuel curve. Ideally, we want to see AFR and RPM, and if possible at various throttle positions – i.e. WOT, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4.  There is a mode in Dyno Dynamics dyno software where it can do a readout in text showing the AFR at every 500rpm or so for the run.  If you can get that then great, else a chart or a couple of charts showing the above at a couple of throttle positions are a great start.

Just choose the right J3 Chip for your vehicle from the Product page and contact us with the specifications before ordering.

See our Library section for more information about DIY tuning. You will need some way of monitoring the AFR; preferably a Wideband O2 Kit like we sell on our DIY Products page, or a dyno. If this is a little out of your comfort zone, you can get a Stage 2 J3 Chip or Stage 3 J3 Chip or even see one of our Tuners to tune the car for you!

Yes. The Four Tune Selector Switch can be used to switch between the tunes. We normally recommend this for NOS, High/Low boost, High/Low octane, or Valet tunes. It is not necessary to use a switch for “Power vs Economy” tunes – we believe we can get good economy and power from a single tune, the only control being your right foot!

Yes, by anyone with one of our J3 Programmers. Just order a Custom Tune from the site, and email us with the details of what needs updating. For dyno tuning with one of our Tuners, contact the dealer directly for a price.

Yes! See our Speedo Corrector Module to adjust your speed if you have changed your tyres, diff or transmission and the speedo is no longer accurate.

This depends on the model of ECU and the engine type.

V8 ECUs use a MAF, so as long as you have enough resolution for the airflow, boost is not an issue.

AU 6 cyl ECUs will need a XR6 Turbo MAP sensor to run any boost above 1psi.

EA-EL 6 cyl ECUs can run boost with just a chip, but need a Fuel Cut Defeater to go beyond 10psi. We have seen an a few cars run over 350rwkw in this way with the right supporting fuel system.

We also sell Haltech ECUs if you are looking for features such as boost control, torque control, drive by wire, etc.

Yes. We can remove Smartlock/Smartshield from all ECUs and PCMs, allowing simpler wiring when retrofitting engines to other vehicles. This allows the engine to be fitted with just the ECU and associated, loom; no key transponders or body module is required. We regularly do Smartlock/Smartshield Disable chips to suit Speedway cars, Hot Rods, 4x4s or even Boat engine conversions.