Our Frequently Asked Questions page covers questions that are frequently asked by our customers!
Can I get your phone number?
We do not list a phone number on our Contact page as we prefer to do all of our business online. This allows us to keep track of your requests, and makes it much less likely for us to make a mistake when completing your order.
If you need to get us on the phone try 0481 786 428, however please understand we may not be able to take calls at all times.
Preferably, please use the Contact page to drop us a message. We do our best to respond to all messages within 12 hours.
Which cars do you support?
Our hardware will work on any Single or Dual Bank EEC computers (yes, even overseas hardware). This includes EA, EB, EF, EL, XG, and XH Ford Falcons along with the N-series Fairlanes. For a list of the definitions and binaries we can offer tuning advice and support on, please see Tuning Files.
For EA-ED 6 Cyl vehicles, we recommend fitting an EL ECU, for the reasons mentioned in Installing an EL ECU into EA-ED guide (this also explains how to keep the Trip Computer working). See the Library section for more info.
Which product do I need?
The answer to this depends on your knowledge level and what you want to do with your vehicle. If you are looking to get a Chip to suit a manual conversion, or Disable Smartlock or Smartshield, a Stage 1 J3 Chip is the best solution. For those with more serious modifications, like a warm camshaft, intake/exhaust changes, or if you are just looking to get the most out of your car, a Stage 2 J3 Chip is the best choice, while cars with turbo/supercharger installations would be after a Stage 3 J3 Chip. Finally, advanced users with the knowledge and experience to DIY tune their cars should look at the Chip and Programmer or Full House DIY Tuning Kit for all the gear required to tune yourself.
How much power will a chip give me?
This is dependant on the vehicle and what the tune is like to begin with. Power can be made all over the curve – remember you spend the most time well below peak rpm! Chasing power through the middle of the chart will make for a much more drivable and economical vehicle. Using premium fuel adds additional benefit as the tune can be altered to suit the higher octane rating of premium fuel. There are small benefits to be made with Stage 1 Chips, but greater gains can be had with a Stage 2 and Stage 3 J3 Chips as we spend more time refining the tune to suit your car. It is difficult or impossible to guess how much additional power will be made, however 5-10% increases are normal.
Can I install a chip myself? How is the chip installed?
Installation is a very simple process involving no special tools. Some soldering may be required for AU Series 1 only. The J3 port on the ECU needs to be cleaned very well, then the chip simply plugs in! Read the J3 Chip Installation Instructions for more information and a step-by-step guide on how to install a J3 Chip.
Can you customise a chip to suit my particular engine modifications?
Yes; we can supply a J3 Chip to suit your specifications. Supplying a dyno printout with RPM and AFR is highly recommended as it allows us to tailor the tune to your fuel curve. Ideally, we want to see AFR and RPM, and if possible at various throttle positions – i.e. WOT, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4. There is a mode in Dyno Dynamics dyno software where it can do a readout in text showing the AFR at every 500rpm or so for the run. If you can get that then great, else a chart or a couple of charts showing the above at a couple of throttle positions are a great start.
How hard is it to DIY tune my car? Are there any guides that I can read?
See our Library section for more information about DIY tuning. You will need some way of monitoring the AFR; preferably a Wideband O2 Kit like we sell on our DIY Products page, or a dyno. If this is a little out of your comfort zone, you can get a Stage 2 J3 Chip or Stage 3 J3 Chip or even see one of our Tuners to tune the car for you!
What can be changed in a custom tune?
There are hundreds of parameters which can be modified with the current definitions, and the list is always growing. Some common parameters include idle speeds, rev and speed limiters, fuel maps, spark maps, LHM stall speed, Smartlock bypass, Smartshield bypass, transmission line pressure, shift speeds, transmission type (for Manual conversions), and many many more. Contact us for more info.
What if my car has LPG?
We can modify Tickford LPG bins to get the best ignition timing possible. We can also use a switch chip to run two maps. Finally, it is possible to run a single, high advance tune as a compromise to suit Petrol and LPG (as long as you run Premium petrol).
Can I run multiple tunes?
Yes. The Four Tune Selector Switch can be used to switch between the tunes. We normally recommend this for NOS, High/Low boost, High/Low octane, or Valet tunes. It is not necessary to use a switch for “Power vs Economy” tunes – we believe we can get good economy and power from a single tune, the only control being your right foot!
How long will it take to receive my order?
As long as we have stock, orders made with immediate payment (i.e. not eCheque) and before 6PM AEST will generally be shipped inside two working days.
For domestic orders we ship via Express Post, while International Orders use regular airmail. Please allow 4 working days for domestic orders and 10 working days for international before contacting us.
I have installed a new diff, can you correct my speedo?
No. Unfortunately, the ECU can not modify the speedo signal. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can look into a Jaycar Speedo Corrector kit, or see shiftkits.com.au for a ready made solution.
How much boost can I run?
This depends on the model of ECU and the engine type. V8 ECUs use a MAF, so as long as you have enough resolution for the airflow, boost is not an issue. AU 6 cyl ECUs will need a MAP Sensor Clamp, Fuel Cut Defeater, or XR6 Turbo MAP sensor to run any boost above 1psi. EA-EL 6 cyl ECUs can run up to 10psi with just a chip, but need a Fuel Cut Defeater to go beyond this. We have seen an EL ECU run over 350rwkw in this way with the right supporting fuel system.
Can you disable, override or bypass Smartlock / Smartshield for my engine conversion project?
Yes. We can remove Smartlock/Smartshield from all ECUs and PCMs, allowing simpler wiring when retrofitting engines to other vehicles. This allows the engine to be fitted with just the ECU and associated, loom; no key transponders or body module is required. We regularly do Smartlock/Smartshield Disable chips to suit Speedway cars, Hot Rods, 4x4s or even Boat engine conversions.